We kicked off the second leg of our German-Israeli young leaders exchange program this Thursday when the Israeli group greeted the Germans at the airport. Some of the Israelis traveling from Jerusalem were late as their was a settler protest cutting off the exit to the capital, but we got there, and it was great to have the group together again. Some of the Germans were a little tired from the day’s travel, but once they put on their free Bertlesmann T-shirt with “Haven’t we suffered enough” written on the back, and got their first taste of Israeli cappuccinos, the color came back to their cheeks, and so did the smiles. It’s quite amazing that for some of the Germans this is their first trip to Israel – well, the Israelis found that interesting because obviously this is the most important country in the world and if you haven’t been here yet then you haven’t really lived yet, right?
It didn’t take the group long to renew “old” friendships and pick up where we had left off some ten weeks ago. It turns out that the Israelis got together a few times during the break, twice at bars and restaurants and once at Osnat’s house to plan the second leg. It’s easier for the Israelis to meet than it is for the Germans as most of the Israeli group lives either in Tel-Aviv or close to it. Straight from the airport we boarded a bus and headed south west towards the Dead Sea, and Masada. Our driver is called Bambi, like the little deer, and enough said about that. On the way into the Arava Desert we stopped off at Kfar Nokdim for dinner. This is quite an experience, as Nokdim is a Beduin – themed village where real Beduins have set up quite a luxurious restaurant and cultural center. We all sat on mats in a tent and listened to an explanation of Beduin culture and politics, while all the time receiving strong tea and even stronger coffee. It turns out that if you are a desert traveler and you happen to come across a Beduin tent, your host will most likely offer you at least one cup of coffee. If he offers you two cups, it means he likes you and will protect you. If he offers you three cups then he really likes you and you can make yourself at home. If he only offers you one, he is signaling to you to drink up and be on your way.
From dinner we headed to Masada, and we checked in at the revamped youth hostel there. By this time we were all quite tired but that didn’t stop the usual suspects from getting some beers out and having a good time. The rest of us went to bed, knowing we had to get up at 4AM so that we could climb up Masada in time to see the sunset from the peak. The group already knows not to mess with Maren and Osnat and so everybody, well, almost everybody, was up and ready and congregated at 04:30 in the lobby drinking coffee and having a slice of cake. There was some talk of a rebellion by the group against the Bertlesmann organizers and perhaps even the Board of Directors and their families for making us get up this early, so that they wouldn’t think they could do this to us again. But the thought of climbing the majestic rock and seeing sunset over the desert quelled even this revolt. The climb was not an easy one, but with several stops along the way, and some encouragement from each other, the group reached the summit of the tragic mountain as a group, with plenty of time before the sunrise. The story of Masada, as told to us by a professor of anthropology from Ben Gurion University of the Negev goes something like this [poetic license entirely mine]: Jews were part of many tribes and peoples in the Holy Land about 3,000 years ago, unfortunately round about the same time that the Romans were conquering the world; the Romans wanted this piece of Real Estate between the Nile and the Euphrates; the Romans invaded, the Jews resisted whilst at the same time fighting amongst themselves; the Romans won, obviously, and put down the Jewish rebellion; a small group of hardcore anti-Romans, who also happened to be extremely religious and extremely anti-Roman fled to the mountain fortress of Masada, where they were a thorn in the side of the Roman Legions for about a year or so [a little like that village in Gaul from the Asterix comics]; eventually the Romans built a ramp that took them all the way onto Masada’s summit, and as they burst forth to conquer the last remaining Jewish resistance, they found that they had all committed suicide instead of succumbing to Roman Imperial rule.
From the Israelis, practically everybody had been on this rock above the Dead Sea at least once before: For school children in this country until the 80s it was a custom to climb up here and learn about this narrative of resistance and the Israeli Army until recently held its pledge of alegiance on top of Masada.
For the Germans it seemed odd to learn about this particular national myth. Until the guide reminded them, that it resembled the story of a certain “Herrmann der Cherusker”, who also stood up against the Romans (he slaughtered a legion or so in the dense German forrest) and whose deeds are also taught to school children Germany.
That part of the program left us with the question if we really need myths like Masada to function as modern nations.
Amir & Christian
